BATIK: Indonesian Traditional Fabric

Batik has been inhabiting the blood and spirit of Indonesian people since forever. The quintessence, epitome, and technique embedded within has been saturated far into the native’s both formal and informal aspects of life. Batik shirt for the office, batik uniform in every school, batik decorations at home, batik clothes as sarong, batik dress in wedding, batik in art performances, batik in high and low. Derived from former to latter generation perennially until this very moment, this distinctive traditional cloth is a protractedly loyal company for Indonesian people from birth to death.

In 2009, Indonesian Batik was patented by the UNESCO on the Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. This acknowledgement is a clear indication of indigenous to oecumenical recognition and love. The range of batik’s multeity has no end, all kind posses elegant and exquisite pattern, motive, and colors. As a protruding share in Indonesian cultures, heritages, and long-living history, batik deserves an upright courtesy and more coverages for the sake of education.

WHAT IS BATIK? In Javanese language, the word “Batik” is obtained from the word “Ambatik”. “Amba” is writing and “tik” is dot, which means writing a dot. Using silk garments or cotton cloth, the colours and beautiful patterns are created with wax and dye. The artistry and craftmanship of batik is no longer poured solely to cloth, but to other media like wood, plastic, paper, leather, and so forth. Being a work of art and traditional fabric of Indonesia, the country dedicates a day on October 2nd every year as National Batik Day.

BRIEF HISTORY Experts are still arguing the true origin of batik, since the trace of evidence existed 1500 years ago in Egypt and Middle East. They were also in China, Japan, West Africa, India, and Turkey. However, it is widely agreed that Indonesia, precisely Java island, is the number 1 and only 1 to work on unfolding its potential growing vehemence.

In 17th century AD, after Indonesia got its hand on imported nicely woven fabric, batik was given birth using palm leaf and traditional house boards. Flora and fauna motifs were the pioneer. It was just a side activity to fill in a spare time. The wide-spread and popularity took the podium in late 18th or early 19th century. The first few people to have batik on their skin as an apparel are those in Keraton family (palace area), like the kingdom ruler, royal family, and internal workers. Some motifs were strictly worn only by royalty from Sultan’s palace. Gradually, it became common to every level of society, and expanded further as form of art.

THE MOTIFS There is abundant range of lines and curves. Certain designs are associated with supernatural power to either dispel dark spirit or to bring good fortune, used in religious rituals and festivals. Some patterns were highly influenced by other aspect from foreign countries like European bouquets, Arabic calligraphy, and Chinese phoenixes. Growing from Java to other provinces, batik has different characteristics in different region throughout Indonesia. Some popular motifs: Parang: From Central Java. The pattern exhibits a “knife” or “broken blade” pattern in diagonal and parallel alignment. Mega Mendung: Popularly known for its chinese-style cloud in the sky as an icon in Cirebon, symbolizing patience. Poleng Biru: Balinese batik dominated with blue and white color, containing the meaning of harmony and equanimity within and without for life’s joyousness. Kawung: The pattern is geometrically neat superimposed circles, or kawung fruit within a square. One of the oldest design in Java. Sasirangan: Unique from South Kalimantan, with mangosteen pattern as the most popular. Used in local rituals to ward off evil spirit.

EQUIPMENTS & PROCESS Duration of the whole process of traditional batik making varies from months to years. The complexity of the design and the utilized tools are the main determinant. The intricacy and material quality also settle the cost and the price. Due to accruing demand of batik, now batik can be imitated with modern technology to escalate cost & time efficiency. Modern batik does not follow stiff guidelines of natural dye and particular design usage. Some are still doing it the old way, like this: Material selection: Other purpose, other material. The more densely woven, the better it is in absorbing the wax and maintaining the excellence. Clothes will be washed and boiled several times to rub out any dirt or stain, beaten up with wooden mallet, and iron to smooth it flat. Sketch of design: Using charcoal, graphite, or pencil, the outline of the pattern is hand-drawn or hand-traced on the white/beige fabric. “Real” batik is drawn both sides, mirroring each other. Waxing: The process requires wax (mixture of beeswax and paraffin), canting (the pen-like equipment to draw), cap (cooper stamp as a block of design unit), and wajan (small iron wok with flame under to keep wax melted). With canting and wax, trail the initially drawn pattern. With cap, dip it to melted wax and paste it to the cloth in organized alignment. Dyeing: Coloring process needs dyes as many as the colors needed. The fabric is soaked in dye bath, then to cold water. The wax then removed and reapplied to the area to maintain. Achieving different hue or effect depends on different technique each. Wax Removal: Final dip in hot water to thoroughly remove the wax. Hanged and dried, batik is ready.

Extremely enriched with values, details, and histories, comprehending and appreciating batik takes much longer than just an article. For further empirical research and understanding, get your feet on Indonesia and your hands on a batik class. Immersed in unrivalled details, batik has held the fort for centenaries and will forever until an unfathomable future.